Corned Beef with Cabbage and Potatoes

Corned Beef Hash

Corned beef is one of those Australian dishes that is so common, no one bothers writing down the recipe. Not Stephanie Alexander, in the first edition of The Cook's Companion if I recall correctly. Certainly not the newspapers of the 1930s, when corned beef hash made with the leftovers reached its peak of popularity. Other more exotic 1930s suggestions for leftovers included corned beef meatloaf, corned beef curry, corned beef pie and corned beef souffle.

When it comes to cooking corned beef there are probably as many variations as there are cooks. Some use two lots of water, bringing the meat to a simmer and discarding the first, briney lot and starting again - this time adding the onions, carrots and other flavourings. Some stud the cloves into one of the onions, and re-use the cooked onion to flavour the white sauce. Others add the onions and carrots to the water in the last 30-45 minutes of cooking and serve them with the meat.

Potatoes, mashed or boiled, and cabbage are the traditional sides. The cabbage can be thinly sliced and simmered, drained, and a little white vinegar and butter added at the end; or cut into wedges and boiled. Parsley sauce, mustard sauce or plain white sauce make good accompaniments, but so does ordinary Dijon or hot English mustard. 

The leftovers can be made into a corned beef hash using roughly equal quantities of cold cooked potatoes, corned beef and - if you like - cabbage. Some 1930s recipes call for half a cup of water, milk or cream or a well-beaten egg to be added towards the end, but it is not really necessary. For a breakfast corned beef hash, a fried egg can go on top.

Corned Beef with Cabbage and Potatoes

1.25-1.5 kg corned silverside or brisket on the bone

2 onions, peeled

2-3 carrots, peeled

2-3 bay leaves

6 cloves

8 peppercorns 

1-2 tbsp brown or malt vinegar

1 dessertsp brown sugar

Wash meat well under running cold water to remove surface brine. Place in large saucepan, cover with water, add onions, carrots, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, vinegar and sugar. Cover, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for approximately two hours, or until the meat is tender.

Serve with cabbage and small boiled potatoes brushed with melted butter and sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Corned Beef Hash

1 onion, finely chopped

30g butter

cold boiled potatoes, chopped into large chunks

paprika

corned beef, shredded into chunks or cut into pieces

cold cooked cabbage 

In a large frypan, saute the onion in butter until soft and golden. Toss in the potatoes; sprinkle with paprika and salt. When the edges are lightly browned, toss through the corned beef and cabbage. Turn the mixture once or twice and continue to cook until heated through. Serve piled in the middle of a round bowl.

The Fitted Kitchen

The 1920s and 30s saw architects, including women, design kitchens that would reduce housework, accommodate modern appliances and create a "nerve centre" for the small family. No longer a large bare room at the back of the house, the kitchen was positioned at the side or towards the front and preferably next to the dining room, to which it could be linked by a small servery or hatch.

In America, "efficiency experts" had found that a circular work area in the kitchen reduced the number of steps a woman took while making a shortcake from 281 to 45 (Adelaide Mail, 9 August 1930). The circular work area places the stove, cupboards and refrigerator in one corner, with a "service table on wheels" that can be moved around the kitchen as needed. And quietly. It has rubber tyres.

This circular work area is in a relatively large kitchen, designed by an American woman, with an expensive "electric dish washer" next to the sink and a "planning desk" in the corner that houses a box of recipes, drawers for paid and unpaid bills, a telephone and a shelf for recipe books and "the loud speaker of a wireless set". The table, bottom right, seats four for breakfast and the children for lunch.

In Australia, "planning desks" and electric dish washers were less in demand, but work areas were similarly designed for efficiency.  

The really efficient factory-like Australian kitchen probably reached its apotheosis in an article by an architect using the nom-de-plume Best Overend, A.R.I.B.A., AR.A.I.A. Published in the Argusin 1934 under the title: "Small-House Kitchen - Rounded Corners, Flush Surfaces - Why Not Hose It Out?" the writer suggested that with no open shelves, a linoleum floor and a tiled wall, "there seems no reason why the modern kitchen should not be cleaned out and freshened with a hose - and what a relief that might prove to overwrought feelings!" The breakfast nook was redundant too, with "easy and direct access of the dining alcove" (26 July 1934, p.13).

By 1938 the Argus observed that the kitchen "is generally becoming smaller because it has been found that by carefully planning the position of the stove, sink and drainer, food and crockery cupboards, and workbench, less floor space is required". 

In the smaller kitchen, the pantry disappeared, replaced by "cupboards placed in convenient positions around the walls. Fitted with flush panel doors these cupboards present an unbroken surface which does not collect dust. They are designed for the storage of foodstuffs or kitchen equipment. Cupboards for perishables are now ventilated from below the floor, with an outlet in the ceiling... The position of these cupboards is important for the convenient working of the kitchen. The grocery cupboard should be close to the back door, and the cabinets for the storage of china, glass, silver, and table linen should be convenient to the dining-room. The position of the cupboards, however, is governed by the shape of the room." (Argus, 19 August 1937)

Like the pantry, the breakfast nook was redundant. Best Overend suggested a dresser be built in "between the dining space and the kitchen, and this will incorporate a servery hatch with direct connection with the preparation table". Rather than having a large table in the middle of the kitchen "round which Cook wended her way to and from the stove and the sink", food would be prepared on a flap projecting from the wall making the "preparation of meals... more comparable with the assembling line of motor-car plant than a series of isolated operations" ( Argus, 11 October 1934, p. 7)

Roast Shoulder of Lamb with Port and Redcurrant Jelly

This recipe is inspired by one that appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald on 18 December 1939 which suggested shoulder of lamb with redcurrant and mint jelly as an economical alternative to the traditional roast goose. The jelly can also be served with cold lamb, "turned out on small lettuce leaves".

Roast Shoulder of Lamb

1.25 kg shoulder of lamb

potatoes

parsnips
small onions
salt, pepper

Season lamb, roast at 220 degrees Celsius for 15-20 minutes, reduce to 180 degrees and cook for a further 45 minutes. Add the potatoes, parsnips and onions to the baking dish; toss these in the melted lamb fat; cook for a further 45 minutes.

Remove the lamb and rest, covered, for 15 minutes before serving. Meanwhile increase the oven temperature to 220 degrees to brown the potatoes, parsnips and onions.

If desired, the lamb can be served with a thin gravy: Make a brown roux with 30g butter and 1 level tblsp flour, add 1 glass of white wine, the pan juices (from which the fat has been skimmed), season and simmer for a few minutes. Alternatively, reserve some of the port and redcurrant jelly, add the pan juices, water or stock, season and simmer for a few minutes.

Port and Redcurrant Jelly

100g redcurrant jelly
100ml port
1 tablespoon fresh mint, finely chopped (optional)
1 leaf gelatine, soaked in water for 5-7 minutes and squeezed out

In a small saucepan, gently heat the redcurrant jelly and port until the jelly has dissolved. Stir in the mint. Remove from heat, add the gelatine. Fill small moulds and place in the freezer to set.

Venison Pie

Venison recipes are absent from early Australian newspapers, but as early as 1803 a Mr Harris was keeping deer in an enclosure in Sydney known as 'the Swamp', and by the 1860s there were wild deer in Victoria. The Victorian Game Pie recipes that appeared in newspapers in the 1890s did not specify the type of "game" required, but rabbit seems a likely candidate.

This venison pie can also be made with a commercial puff pastry, with the pastry on top of the pie only. Redcurrant jelly - about a tablespoon - can be added to the sauce, or served on the side.

Marinade

1 onion, sliced

1 carrot, sliced

1 French shallot, finely chopped

1 stalk celery, sliced

bouquet (bay leaf, parsley, thyme)

2 cloves

1 cup white wine vinegar

oil

Saute the onion, carrot, shallot and celery in a little oil for 1 minute; add the bouquet, cloves and vinegar, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Allow the marinade to cool. When cold, pass through a sieve and pour over the venison, previously seasoned with salt and pepper. Turn the venison once or twice while marinating. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

Suet pastry

240 g plain flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

120g suet, finely chopped

90-100 ml water, approx.

Sift flour, baking powder and salt into a basin and add the finely-chopped (or grated) suet. Mix with water to a soft dry dough, knead well in the basin. Alternatively, whiz all ingredients in a food processor, knead well on a floured surface. Roll into a smooth ball. Cover with cling wrap and refrigerate until the filling is ready.

Meat Filling

1 kg venison shoulder, diced into 2 cm pieces

1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, sliced 

salt, pepper and herbs (parsley, thyme, bay leaf)

1 cup rich gravy

1 leaf gelatine

Strain the marinade, reserve. Dust venison pieces with seasoned flour, brown in butter, remove to a clean saucepan. Saute onion and carrot, in extra butter if needed, and add to the venison. Add warmed marinade and water sufficient to cover, simmer about an hour (for farmed venison). Strain off the liquid and reserve for the "gravy". Allow the meat to cool.

Venison Pie

Cut the pastry into two pieces, two-thirds for the base and sides of the pie dish and one-third for the cover.

Roll out the large piece of pastry, line the base and sides of the pie dish. Spoon in the meat filling, smooth the top.

Roll out the pie cover, cut a circle of pastry from the centre and set aside.

Brush the edges of the pie cover with beaten egg or milk, place on the top of the pie and pinch the edges together. Brush the top with beaten egg and bake in a moderately hot oven for 60 minutes.

After 45 minutes, when the pie is almost ready, heat the gravy and reduce to 1 cup, stir in the softened gelatine, and pour through the hole left in the top of the pie. Serve with mashed potato and brussels sprouts. Serves 6.

Quince Jelly

This recipe is based on the 1920s recipe for pomegranate jelly. The cochineal can be used to add colour for a deeper red.

Quince Jelly

3-4 quinces 

1 cooking apple (preferably Golden Delicious or Granny Smith)

250 ml water

1 lemon, peeled and juiced

120g white sugar

1 egg white and egg shell

5 leaves gelatine

1 teaspoon cochineal (optional)

Wash but do not peel the quinces and apple, slice and place in a preserving pan. Cover with water, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer 2-3 hours. Strain the fruit through a fine sieve. It should yield 500-550 ml juice.

Whisk the egg white with a little water.

Put the quince and apple juice, the water, a little lemon juice and the rind, sugar, egg white and the egg shell into an enamel saucepan. Over a gentle heat, whisk the mixture until it comes to the boil; skim.


Meanwhile, soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 to 7 minutes; remove the gelatine mass and gently squeeze out the water.

  

Take the pan off the heat, stir in the gelatine and cochineal (if used), cover the pan; let it stand ten minutes.

Pour a kettle of boiling water through a jelly bag (or a piece of muslin or a clean tea-towel) to warm it. When the water has drained off, pour in the jelly and let it strain into a wetted mould. (I put the wetted jelly mould in a large saucepan, placed the sieve across the top and draped the warm wet muslin across the sieve.) Refrigerate the jelly for at least 3 hours, or overnight, to set.

Persimmon Jelly (2)

After accidentally making a persimmon jelly that was really a jam, I'm making a real Persimmon Jelly by adapting the 1920s recipe for Pomegranate Jelly.

Persimmon Jelly 

5 -6 persimmons

250 ml water

1 lime, juiced (peel and keep the rind)

120g white sugar

1 egg white, and the egg shell

5 leaves gelatine

1 teaspoon cochineal

Wash but do not peel the fruit, cut into quarters and put in a single layer into a preserving pan. Cover the fruit with water, bring to the boil and simmer, semi covered, for an hour or so, until soft. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve. There should be about 500ml of liquid.

Whisk the egg white with a little water.

Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 to 7 minutes; remove the gelatine mass and gently squeeze out the water.

Put the persimmon liquor, water, sugar, lime juice and rind, the egg white and egg shell into an enamel saucepan. Over a gentle heat, whisk the mixture until it comes to the boil; skimming the scum as it rises. Take the pan off the heat, stir in the gelatine and cochineal, cover the pan; let it stand ten minutes.

Pour a kettle of boiling water through a jelly bag (or a piece of muslin or a clean tea-towel) to warm it. When the water has drained off, pour in the jelly and let it strain into a wetted mould. (I put the wetted jelly mould in a large saucepan, placed the sieve across the top and lined it with a double layer of muslin.) Refrigerate the jelly for at least 3 hours, or overnight, to set. Serves 6. 

Neck of Lamb with Carrots, Turnips and Peas

"Vesta" edited the women's pages of the Melbourne Argus for more than 30 years, from 1908 to 1938, and while she wrote about all sorts of social and political issues affecting women, the sections on "The Wardrobe" and "Kitchen and Pantry" where she answered correspondents' letters, were standards. 

"Vesta" assumed her readers knew the basics. They just needed a tip or two, like this one for casseroles: "Neck of lamb stewed with carrots, turnips and peas is another good dish. It takes about two hours to cook. About half an hour before serving, a tablespoonful of finely chopped mint scalded to make it brighter in colour, a couple of lumps of sugar and a little vinegar should be added to this stew." 

I suspect when "Vesta" had this at home, someone like Phryne's Mrs Butler did the cooking and it arrived at the table as Navarin of Lamb.

Neck of Lamb with Carrots, Turnips and Peas

1.25 kg lamb neck chops, or 750g diced lamb

2 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper

50g butter

1 cup water (or stock or white wine)

12 small onions, peeled

4 small carrots, peeled and sliced into thick rounds

4 small turnips, peeled and halved

1 cup green peas

1 tbsp mint (or parsley)

1 teaspoon sugar

white vinegar

Dust meat in seasoned flour. In a frypan, melt half the butter, brown the meat in batches, and remove to a saucepan. Add stock or water, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer.

In the frypan, melt the remaining butter, brown the onions, carrots and turnips and add to the lamb after it has cooked for 30-45 minutes.

After 30 minutes further cooking, stir in the peas, chopped mint, sugar and vinegar. Serve with mashed or boiled potatoes. Serves 4-6.